A Pyramid in Rome

An enormous pyramid is part of Rome's Aurelian wall at the Ostienese Gate. It stands just over 98 feet (30 meters) tall by 119.4 feet (36.4 meters) wide. The Pyramid was built according to Gaius Cestius' wishes between 18 to 12 BCE, during the time of Augustus. All things Egyptian were very popular at that time, since Egypt had just become part of the Roman empire, and this pyramid reflects the Roman fascination with Egypt. Gaius Cestius wasn't the only Roman who built a pyramid tomb. A similar one was located between the Mausoleum of Hadrian and the Vatican until it was demolished sometime in the 1500 to 1600s. Cestius' pyramid was incorporated into the Aurelian walls in the late 300s and remains standing today. The first time I saw it, I was amazed. Its Italian luna marble gleams in the sunlight.





Gaius Cestius was a Roman priest - one of the Septemviri Epulones. This means he was one of seven priests in charge of sacred banquets.  It is likely that Cestius had a relationship of some type with Marcus Agrippa, friend and son-in-law of Augustus, since Cestius named Agrippa as one of his beneficiaries in his will. An inscription at the Pyramid explains that Cestius had wished for his body to be wrapped in attalica, a very costly gold cloth.  However, an Augustuan law against luxury forbid the use of this gold cloth. The inscription tells us that Cestius' heirs therefore sold the gold cloth and used the proceeds to have two colossal bronze statues on marble bases put up outside the Pyramid. 

I visited the Pyramid with some other Visiting Artists and Scholars from the American Academy in Rome. The photo above is our group with our Italian guide in the middle. Behind us is the small dark entrance into a narrow low hallway, which leads to the small rectangular burial chamber. There was a beautiful fresco to see and a barrel vaulted ceiling. One question, though, remains unanswered. Is there is a secret second burial chamber where the remains of Cestius are entombed?



















The courtyard pictured above is in an area inside the wall where the Pyramid's door faces. It is a green space filled with various marble pieces and a few cats.  It is a much larger area than you would think when you are standing outside its walls.

This is one of two columns that have been re-erected in their original places outside the Pyramid, on the western and eastern points.

The Pyramid is located at Via del Campo Baorio, a short walk from the Pyramid (Piramide) line B metro stop. You can visit the Pyramid anytime to look at its exterior. If you want to visit the courtyard and go inside of the Pyramid it is open on the the 2nd and the 4th Saturdays of the month by guided tour at 11.00 am. Advanced booking is required for these tours. The ticket is €5.50 plus a €1.50 booking fee. For further information call 06/39967700 or go to coopculture.it. 

The Museum of the Ostian Way, located nearby at Via Raffaele Persichetti, has guided tours of the Pyramid on Sundays at 10:30 am. Book the tour in advance by calling 06/5743193.

The Pyramid is in an interesting but typically unexplored part of Rome. Right next to the Pyramid is the Campo Cestio, otherwise known as the Non-Catholic Cemetary, the Protestant cemetery or the Foreigner's Cemetery. Two famous friends are buried there, John Keats and Percy Bysshe (though not near each other). 

A little bit farther south from the Pyramid is the Centrale Montemartini Museum, where ancient Roman sculptures, mosaics and other remains are creatively displayed in a former electricity plant. There are some very interesting things to see. It is located at Via Ostiense, 106 and is open Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 7 pm. Tickets are €7.50. See en.centralemontemartini.org.

Mount Testacio is also nearby, a mountain made of discarded amphora, disposed of after the olive oil or wine had been drained out. It was cheaper to throw them away then to try and clean them for reuse. See if you can spot the hill of broken amphora.

Cites:
Amanda Claridge, Rome (2002).