This article is not meant to be a comprehensive list of things to see or do in Rome, but instead are my favorites, that may or may not be in guidebooks.
Ruins
The Domus Aurea (Nero's Golden House)
It's open again! The hours are limited to only Saturdays and Sundays from 9 am to 5 pm. (last entrance is at 3:45 pm). To get tickets, go to coopculture.it or call 06/39967700. Go as fast as you can since it was closed for many years due to flooding.
The Palatine Hill
Make sure to visit the House of Augustus where the ramp from Augustus' house to the temple of Apollo is a main attraction (pictured above).
See if you can peek into the Room of the Masks.
Behind the House of Augustus is the House of Livia. When I visited the House of Livia in 2005, it was clear it was being prepared for public tours and it says online at coopculture.it that it is open. This house is more intact and has some beautiful frescos.
Beyond the House of Augustus, look in the area on the edge of the hill where there are ruins of Iron Age huts. Back toward the gardens, look for Nero’s Cryptoporticus. It's an underground tunnel used connect different areas of his Golden House. A long part of it remains, if you can find it.
Chiesa di S. Clemente
Visit the church of St. Clemente and the layers of history underneath it. There are remains of a mithraeum and a Roman house. This is the place I visited on the first day of my Topography of Rome class and it really made an impression.
The Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini in Piazza Venezia
Using a new approach to bring ruins to life, the Palazzo Valentini is not a cheap ticket at €12, but succeeds in integrating modern digital projections onto ruins so we can see how the room probably looked in ancient times. This amazing complex even includes a World War II bunker. Be prepared for the lights show -- its dark and could be disorienting to some. However, the show helps make one understand the site better than a sign would communicate with words alone. One of the more interesting sights are two enormous granite columns from the Basilica Ulpian, larger than those of the Pantheon. There is also a great view looking up at the Column of Trajan.
Portico of Octavia/Theater of Marcellus Area
Sometimes in the summer there are concerts near the ruins of the Theater of Marcellus. It is wonderful to be there in the evening, waiting with anticipation for your show to begin and imagining the shows that happened 2,000 years ago. It is a fascinating ruin, since it was fortified around the 11th century and now consists of luxury apartments atop the remains of the ancient theater.
This was a densely constructed area with two temples, the Theater of Marcellus and the Porticus of Octavia all crowded closely together.
Most of the churches here have interesting remains that are open to the public. The area around Sant'Omobono can be viewed from the fence, but it is open at least once a month (look for a sign at the church with information) and there are three temples under the church S. Nicola in Carcere that are open to the public. Across the street from the church is the interesting Triumphal Way Arcades, which appears as the remains of an arch today.
This area is centrally located to the Tiber River and the oldest bridge, the Pons Fabricio. The Forum Boarium, the Roman meat market, and the Forum Holitorium, the Roman vegetable market, were located nearby as well. Head towards the Piazza Bocca della Verita to see two of the oldest temples in Rome, one round, the so-called temple to Vesta, and one rectangular, the so-called temple of Portunus. Make sure to walk to the porch of Santa Maria in Cosmedin and stick your hand in the mouth of truth.
The Pantheon (of course)
Make sure to notice the original Roman bronze doors when you enter. This is one set of only three that have survived from ancient Rome. The papal looking faces on the doors were added later (by a pope).
Around the Pantheon is a wonderful area of old Rome (the Campus Martius) to walk around. Have one of the best espressos across the street (to the right if your back is to the Pantheon) at Tazzo d'Oro, Via deglie Orfani, 84. If you head up the street to the left of the Pantheon, Via della Minerva, there is the famous elephant by Bernini with an Egyptian obelisk on his back in front of the famous Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. The steps of the church are a nice place to sit and people watch.
Go in the basement of Pizzeria de Agrippa, Via dei Cestari, 38, to see some remains of Marcus Agrippa’s Baths. On the Via Ciambella, just down the street, you can see the remaining arches from the entrance hall to the massive Baths of Agrippa built into the apartment buildings.
Museums
The Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Make sure to visit the top floor which has amazing frescos and mosaics on display. Some are famous, like the room from Livia's villa at Prima Porta. The basement is full of Roman coins and other unusual items. Make sure it is open when you pay for your ticket since it requires extra security (to protect the Roman coins). The museum is near Termini, the train station, at Largo Villa Peretti, 2 and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 7:45 pm.
The Ara Pacis
The Ara Pacis was closed for a decade and is reopened in a modern yet warm building designed by Richard Meier. The Altar of Peace is not only massive but complicated. This museum does a good job at displaying it and trying to understand it. It is located at Lugotevere Augusta and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 7:30 pm.
The Mausoleum of Augustus is across the street from the Ara Pacis. It's only open at special times but it is interesting to walk around the perimeter even if you can't get inside.
Crypta Balbi
This is a very interesting museum focusing on medieval and ancient Rome located near Largo Argentina. Make sure and go on the tour of the ruins at the museum (they run all day). It is located at Via della Botteghe Oscure, 31 and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 7:45 pm.
Entertainment & Fun
Have a drink in Piazza Navona at one of the cafes at sunset. This used to be the Stadium of Domitian and it retains the shape of the race course today. You can see some of the ruins of the Stadium on the north side of the Piazza if you walk to Piazza S. Apollinare and go left, the ruins are down below on the left side. To enter the ruins (which are worth the trip), purchase the €8 tickets at Via di Tor Sanguigna, 3. Hours: every day 10 am to 7 pm, and Saturdays until 8 pm.
Climb the stairs from Trastevere (or take a taxi) to the Fontana d'Aqua Paola on the Janiculum Hill. The fountain was featured in the beginning of the Italian movie The Great Beauty, which won Best Oscar for foreign language film in 2014. I got particularly attached to this magnificent fountain when I spent three weeks in Rome with a view of the fountain from my backyard. There was a lot going on since it is a popular lovers hang out. From the fountain, take a walk along the promenade at sunset. You will pass by Garibaldi's statue and if you look you might find the statue of his wife too. There will be a wonderful mix of people and an unbeatable view of the city below you.
An area full of winding streets and happening bars and restaurants is Trastevere. Go hang out near Santa Maria in Trastevere. This is another good spot to people watch. The fountain basin in the square is from the Augustan era.
Restaurants
** Ristorante La Taverna degli Amicia, Piazza Margana,
36/37, Tel. 06/9200493. This is in the Jewish Ghetto area, which is not only a
great place to walk around to see the ruins and also to grab lunch or dinner. Try the Carciofi alla Guidia (Jewish Artichokes) if they are in season (spring to summer). They are very good (but even better at Piccolo Arancia mentioned
below).
** Maccheroni Ristorante, Piazza delle Copelle, 44. Tel. 06/68307895. Call ahead by one day to make reservations. Ask for a table outside.
** In an alley beyond the Maccheroni Ristorante (sort of
hard to find) is a more upscale but wonderful restaurant, Il Bacaro, Via degli
Spagnoli, 27. Tel. 06/686-4110.
** Hostaria Antica Roma, Via Appia Antica, 87 tel. 06/5132888. Set in an Augustan era columbarium (where the Romans placed the ashes
of their dead in urns; it is in ruins and hard to even make out the niches but
a neat setting) with Roman and Mediterranean cuisine. Book a "dinner with Apicius" to try authentic recipes and tastes of ancient Rome. You have to call two to three days in advance
(some days less). The owner is so nice and the food is wonderful. However, it
is a fifteen minute cab ride out of Rome on the Via Appia. I highly recommend
this.
** If you want lunch near the Forum, go to Ristorante
Messanzio, Largo Carrado Ricci, 2-6, telephone: 06/6790706. They have really
good brick oven pizzas. This is what pizza is all about in Italy.
** Ristorante al Piccolo Arancia, near the Trevi Fountain,
Vicolo Scanderberg, 112. Tel. 06/6786139 (closed Mondays). See if the Carciofi alla Guida is available. It is the best here! Their specials are always extra delicious and fresh.
** An out of the way excellent restaurant in northern part
of the city is Ristorante Ambasicata d’ Abruzzo, Via Pietro Tacchini, 26. Tel.
06/8078256.
At most pizzerias, they serve already made pizza by weight. My favorite one for a quick lunch is on Via Florida, on the other side of Largo Torre Argentina. Look for tavola caldas for more substantial pre-made food, like roast chicken. Try the rice balls or potato logs. They are delicious snacks or appetizers.
Favorite Gelato
My favorite gelato is Gelateria della Palma at Via della Maddalena, 20. It is a few blocks north of the Pantheon. There are so many flavors to choose from I'm sure that you will find a favorite! The picture above is just one of the three cases of gelato to choose from.
Il Gelato di San Crispino is another top gelato place, which focuses on fresh ingredients and unusual flavors. They are located at Piazza della Maddalena, 3 (near the Pantheon) and Via della Panetteria, 42 (near the Trevi Fountain).
Venchi Gelato is my newest discovery for fabulous gelato. Be forewarned though that it is a little on the pricey side and the portions are smaller than elsewhere. They have two central locations in Rome, Via degli Orfani, 87 (near the Pantheon) and Via della Croce, 25/26.
Shopping
My absolute favorite Italian store is Stefanel. You'll see them in most cities since they are a chain. They have the best quality clothes that are very stylish. They aren't cheap but they are made well from great fabrics. There are three stores in Rome (Via Frattina, 31-33, Piazza Venezia, 5, and Via Nazionale, 37).
A great shopping area is around Campo de Fiori, particularly on Via del Giubbonari. There's a great farmers market in the mornings in Piazza Campo dei Fiori, where tourist items along with fresh fruits and vegetables can be found for sale.
There are vendors lining the street as you walk from Piazza Navona to the Pantheon. I love a little shoe store
across from the Trevi Fountain a few doors down from Benetton. See if you can find it! And, of course,
the Via del Corso has plenty of shops.
Practical Tips
Always carry tissue with you to use for the bathroom and be
prepared for them to be gross. Some won’t have any toliet paper or soap. Also, if you want to use a bathroom at a bar, make sure to buy something. When purchasing items in a bar, pay first then take your receipt to the bar and order.
Do not change money from official looking exchange offices unless you understand up front what the exchange fees are since many charge 20% plus additional fees on top! They have their fees posted but not in an obvious way so that you find out only after you've gotten your Euros that they kept 30% of it for fees. The best practice is to use credit cards to pay for things and to get cash from an ATM. Some ATMs, though, will only accept a four digit pin.
Look at Inromenow.com. It's a weekly online magazine with current things going on in
Rome. Also stop at a tourist offices for
great information and maps. They are called Rome Info Points. There are ones in various places in the city - for example, there is one near Piazza Navona. See romeinformation.it/en/
Be wary of cab drivers. Some will try to rip you off, but not all. Watch
that they set the meter when you start moving. If they don't, ask them to start
it. If need be, negotiate a price before you agree to get a ride.
For buses, buy your tickets at places with a "T"
sign for Tabaccheria. You cannot buy them on the bus. When you get on the bus, stamp it. There are usually one near the back of the bus and one near the front. Inspectors do roam the public transport system and you'll be fined if you haven't stamped your ticket.
When you take the train (not the metro), make sure and stamp
your ticket at the little orange ticket stamping machines. Ask anyone where they are and they'll
direct you. Italians can be real sticklers
for being so laid back.
For pickup to/from the airport use Romecabs.com. They are great. You can also take the bus from in front of the airport (follow the signs) for only €5. There's also a train to Termini train station, but beware the walk could be long for some. It costs €14.
Oh, and be prepared to spend
time waiting to get in to the Coliseum. If possible, get tickets for the Coliseum in advance on-line. I have seen lines as long as one and a half hours. If you want to go the underground area to see where they kept the animals, etc., reserve a ticket on-line at least two months or more in advance at coopculture.it.
Books
- The Blue Guide to Rome was my first introduction to the Eternal City. It provides a basic overview with notes on most places and sights.
- Bring a small Italian phrase book.
- My favorite travel books series are the Eyewitness (I love the pictures and maps) and the Time Out guides (they seem more focused on different or other interesting spots/destinations).
- For those interested in ancient Rome, Filippo Coarelli's Rome and Environs: An Archaeological Guide is a must.
- A bit more scholarly but indispensable guide to ancient Rome is Amanda Claridge's Rome.
- For nonfiction, I love Elizabeth Bowen’s A Time in Rome.
- For fiction, my favorite is Thorton Wilder's The Ides of March, and, of course, Robert Graves' I, Claudius.
** If you want lunch near the Forum, go to Ristorante
Messanzio, Largo Carrado Ricci, 2-6, telephone: 06/6790706. They have really
good brick oven pizzas. This is what pizza is all about in Italy. 
