Lake Nemi's Roman Boats and the Goddess Diana

Not far from Rome, south in the Alban Hills, lay two lakes in the area known as Castelli Romani. One is known as a retreat for the pope, Castel Gandolfo on Lake Albano. However, there's another crater lake known in the ancient world for its famous temple to Diana, Lake Nemi, which has few visitors anymore. Those that do visit are usually there to visit the Museum of the Ships. The unusual thing is that the Museum of the Ships' ships were burned at the end of World War II, locals contending it was the retreating Nazis acting on orders to burn everything. The Museum of the Ships contains items retrieved from the two boats as well as objects that did not burn in the fire. 
Earlier this month work began at Lake Nemi to uncover a supposed third boat that Mussolini's team thankfully did not undertake to recover. The third boat is thought to be larger and is located in the deeper part of the lake. 
Divers are using scanners to look for the 400 foot boat in the lake. If a boat is found there, the Museum of Ships will once again have a Roman ship. 
Suetonius described Caligula boats as having ten banks of oars, constructed of cedar wood containing sculpture, fountains, baths, and adorned with jewels, alabaster, vines and fruit trees.

a hypothetical reconstruction of what the Caligula's boats looked like (from the Museum of the Ships)

marble mosaic decorative floor 

The Museum of the Ships has some interesting artifacts that survived the fire, including statues and bronze remenants.

Lake Nemi

view of Lake Nemi from the village of Nemi

the picturesque village of Nemi

A Roman road runs through the museum. This road led from the city about lake crater, through the current Museum of the Ships and on to the temple to Diana, which lays against the wall of the crater, below the current town of Nemi.

There's a reason Caligula choose Lake Nemi for his pleasure boats. Lake Nemi has been the home to the temple to Diana for thousands of years. In fact, it is speculated that one of the burned boats was in fact a floating temple to Diana.

temple to Diana photo collage

However, for more than 1,500 years, the Temple to Diana was the center of cult to Diana in Italy, one of most popular shrines in the ancient world.

columns from the temple to Diana

statues were probably placed in the niches that line the hill while the town of Nemi towers above

Diana Nemorensis: Diana of the Wood, who has three faces

43 BCE Denarius of P. Accoleius Lariscolus with triple Diana

Huntress - Diana protects the animals with the dark just as she helps the hunter with the moon's light. She has a dog or a stag with her. Sometimes there's a quiver or a bow.
Moon Goddess - Diana is represented by the moon.
Goddess of the Underworld – Diana’s priest at Lake Nemi is Rex Nemorensis, King of the Wood, who must be a fugitive slave that cuts a branch from a tree and challenges the current priest (a former slave) to the death in order to take the priesthood. Bloody, yes. But this doesn't mean that some priests didn't reign long. For example, the same priest was at the temple during the time from Augustus to Caligula.

If you go to Lake Nemi, be sure to try the little strawberries grown in the area and have a porchetta sandwich.

Baiae: Fascinating Ruins of a Roman Resort Near Naples

the partially submerged ruins of Punta Epitaffio in the Golf of Pozzuoli

PBS is airing Nero's Sunken City, Baiae as part of its Secrets of the Dead series, on Wednesday, March 29, 2017 at 10 pm EST.  For more information go to: www.pbs.org/wnet/secrets/




Baiae (now called Baia) is a fascinating area west of Naples in Pozzuoli Bay. I have visited this region numerous times, staying in the area. However, it is an easy twenty minutes from Naples to visit Baia's Archaeological Park, the 15th century Castle of Baia and to go on a glass bottom boat or a scuba trip to see exciting underwater ruins. In addition, there are other places nearby that also offer Roman ruins and gorgeous views. 

statue in the so-called Sosandra temple, first a villa then later a hotel

Baia was where wealthy Romans went to play. It became a resort town in late Republican times with many Romans building luxurious villas on the coast seeking relaxation away from Rome. Remembered for its decadence, the city is now halfway submerged under water due to bradyism. Bradyism is a volcanic phenomenon that has caused the water to rise submerging most of the ancient city under water.

However, the upper part of the city of Baia remains above water and can be seen by visiting the Baia Archaeological Park. This site is a wonderful place to visit because there are no tourists, a nice change from popular spots like Pompeii. It is a fairly large area located on a hillside so allow at least two hours and wear sturdy walking shoes. 

the domed Roman bath, still intact

The warm water pool was part of an extensive Roman bath complex located here. It was mistakenly thought to be a temple to Mercury. During medieval times it was called the temple of Echoes. Today it is one of the most interesting buildings to see at Baia. It still holds water today, but who knows what sea life lies beneath its murky surface. 

the so-called temple to Mercury, outside view 

ancient ceiling decoration

Roman mosaic floor

view of Baia's Archaeological Park

I also recommend visiting the 15th century Castle of Baia (also known as the Argonese Castle), which houses the Campi Flegrei (Burning Fields) Archaeological Museum, a collection of artifacts from Baia and the surrounding area. The Castle is allegedly the former location of a huge villa owned by Julius Caesar.

the harbor and Baia Castle

Water surrounds this part of Italy on three sides in most places. There are mountains and sulfur pools (where Vergil's hell was located), as well as two lakes, Lake Averno and Lake Fusaro. The volcanic activity in the area is significant and includes a new mountain, the Monte Nuovo. In fact, the entire area is known as a supervolcano and consists of 24 craters located underwater. 

Beyond Baia, the ruins in the area are numerous, from Cumae where the famous Sybil had her cave, to Pozzuoli with its Flavian amphitheater, to Posillipo where Vedius Pollio's villa is located, where he reputedly fed errant slaves to his eels. This intriguing area is just waiting to be explored and enjoyed!

the Villa Ambulatio

the so-called Temple to Diana - its name is based on the marble statues of deer and dogs found there

Julius Caesar, the Ides of March and Largo Argentina

Temple B at Largo Argentina

The Ides of March is still remembered today, the day Julius Caesar was murdered. This murder is reported by literary sources as happening in the Senate House. The curious thing is that the senate didn't just meet in the official Senate House. The location of where the senate met on that fateful of Ides of March 44 BCE, is open for view any time of the day or night in the center of Rome at Largo Argentina, behind so-called Temple B. Specifically, if you want to see the place of Julius Caesar's murder, go to Via Torre Argentina and stand with your back toward the Teatro Argentina. Look down and spot the remnants of the Roman latrine located here. No, Julius Caesar wasn't murdered in the latrine, but a floor above it. However, these two levels have collapsed into one in the ruins behind Temple B, the very outer edge of Pompey's theater.

remains of an ancient latrine

On March 15, 2015 a reenactment of Julius Caesar's murder was performed at Temple A in Largo Argentina as close as possible to the area behind temple B. For the video of the reenactment click here.

I am fortunate to know the ruins at Largo Argentina because I spent three weeks working on measuring and drawing one of the columns of Temple A in order to document it and help detangle the layers of history associated with this temple. The project I was participating in is through the American Academy in Rome's Summer Archaeology Program, called Documentation and Analysis of Ancient Buildings, led by Stephan Zink and Jens Pflug. It is offered every other summer.

Temple A at Largo Argentina

The so-called Temple A is one of four Republican-era temples in Largo Argentina along with part of the Theater of Pompey, a private Roman house and the public latrine. This site has many different time periods built on top of one another since the area was raised in with fill at least twice. The reasons for raising the ground level here has do with flooding from the Tiber and it is known that the entire area was raised after the fire of 64 CE.

Column with original base, bricks used to raise the level and Imperial remains are white marble

Italian archaeologist Giacomo Boni worked on excavating the site in the late 1800s. However, since his notes on the site cannot be deciphered, many questions remain about the four temples, including each temple's name. The most famous find from the site was found in 1925 near temple B - a massive head of a goddess. This head is on view at the Centrale Montemartini museum, Via Ostiense 106.

Joanna Mundy working on measuring and documenting Temple A

The Republican-era remains of Temple A were my favorite part, located underneath the temple in its basement. It was exciting putting on a hard hat and going underneath the temple. It was cold and damp with a stagnant smell. Amazingly, once in the lower level of the temple, there are three original temple steps that I was able to walk up to the original podium of the temple where the ancient altar still sits, covered in old moss. When I saw the ancient altar,  there was a scorpion on it. It seemed very appropriate.

Temple A's original altar

the scorpion on the altar

Today, Largo Argentina is a huge square lined with a large bookstore, the wonderful Feltrinelli's, which has a good English language book section, a multitude of cafes, a fantastic place to get pizza by the slice, banks and shops. The large archaeological pit containing the four temples fills the middle of the square, with Temple A on the far north side of the site where once the church of St. Nicholas stood, its asp still visible. The Torre di Papito, a medieval tower that dates from the 12th century still remains on the south end of the site.

Me and the column (to the right) that I worked on at Temple A

If you like cats, make sure to take the steps down to the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary to see the cats that live in the ruins. You can also check them out online at www.romancats.com/torreargentina/en/introduction.php.

For more details look at Amanda Claridge's Oxford Archaeological Guide to Rome, pages 215-219, and Filippo Coarelli's Rome and Environs: An Archaeological Guide, pages 275-281. For more information on the web, see http://www.livescience.com/23900-julius-caesar-assassination-place-discovered.html

Before the Almalfi Coast: the Sorrentine Peninsula

Punta Campanella, the most western point of the peninsula, is named for the bell that was rung to warn of approaching pirates.

For more than 2,000 years there has been a road to the very tip of the Sorrentine Penninsula where a temple to Minerva stood, now Punta Campanella. Along this route, Romans built other temples and many villas, using unique architectural designs and elements that incorporated scenic views, water and light to create luxurious retreats and entertaining rooms. However, now you have to use your imagination and visit the museum in Piano di Sorrento where there is a model of one villa and information on the many villas that dotted this area in ancient times.

I suggest that you rent a car in Sorrento to take your time exploring the Sorrentine Penninsula. However, you can also take the local SITA bus (check times) or take a tour bus or even an open air tram for touring the area.

Capri in the distance.

The highlight for me was the panoramic views of Capri in the smaller village of Termini. Termini is where you can park your car or exit the bus, grab an espresso or a snack at the Bar Simone, and then enjoy the gorgeous view of Capri from a park bench. If you have the time and the inclination, this is where the forty-five minute hike (one way) to Punta Campanella starts. Just look for  the signs to the Via Capo/Punta Campanella.

Capri's famous Fragaglioni.

A chapel on top of Monte San Costanzo, which at 1,600 feet tall towers above the jagged rock of the Punta Campanella.

Massa Lubrense is a moderately sized village with a tourist office near the church in the center of town.  I drove down the winding road to the fishing village of Marina del Lobra looking for the 16th century church of Santa Maria della Lobra. But, like all churches, it closes for Siesta), had lunch with a nice couple from Chester, England.

Once inside Santa Maria della Lobra, I saw the two ancient Roman columns that came from the temple to Sirens.  

Ancient columns in the church of Santa Maria della Lobra.

The beach at Marina del Lobra.

One final place that I recommend is the beach at Marina di Cantone. But there are plenty of other delightful spots waiting to be explored on the Sorrentine Peninsula! Make your own adventure and see what happens. Va bene!

The beach at Marina del Cantone.

An Italian girl and her dog.

A Roman Villa in Positano

Amazing frescos and stucco work are being excavated in a Roman villa located 30 feet under the Positano church Santa Maria Assunta. The  news is that the site is planned to be open to the public at some point. A clear floor is planned to be installed so that visitors can walk above the ancient floors. Very exciting!

For more from Archaeology, go here:

http://www.archaeology.org/slideshow/4763-roman-holiday

Beyond the Almalfi Coast: Vico Equense

Marina di Aequa and the village of Vico Equense on the cliff

Not far from the crowds in Almalfi and Positano, there are villages that may seem to have less but that really have more to offer visitors. 


Vico Equense (Vee-ko E-qwen-zay)  sits high on a cliff with beaches on either side - the Marina di Aequa to the south and the Marina di Vico to the north. This lovely town is abuzz with locals in the later afternoon and early evening, especially around the Piazza J.F. Kennedy and the Piazza D'Umberto. The view of Vesuvius across the Bay of Naples is breathtaking at sunset.  It is a charming village that is busy but isn't full of tourist shops. It has a pleasant downtown area, along with cafes and pizzerias. Try Pizzeria da Franco for a quick and delicious pizza or pastry. Don't miss the local cheese, provolone del Monaco. Go to Da Gigno's, which is famous for selling its pizza by the meter and has been a family business since the 1950s.

Cathedral of SS. Annunziata

It was called Aequana when Marcus Agrippa (c 64-13 BCE) settled veterans from the Roman legions here.  Remains have been found, though, dating as far back as the 7th century B.C.E. In modern times, it is called Vico Equense. The village is perched high up on a tufa cliff, with Monte Faito rising behind it and Vesuvius looming in the distance across the bay. Grapes grace the mountainside and lemon trees flourish. Here, it is possible to feel more Italian charm (and calm) than those overrun with tourists.  Not that I don't love Sorrento, but this is a respite well worth a few nights.

the harbor at Marina di Aequa

view of Vesuvius from southern end of Marina di Aequa with pool

In the main town of Vico Equense, there are several nice hotels located on the south edge of town with great views looking down at the Marina di Aequa and a quick walk to the cathedral of SS. Annunziataa. The Hotel Sporting has a wonderful deck overlooking the cliff above the ocean. The Hotel Mary also has views of the water.

In the cove that is the small town of Marina di Aequa, there is a main street along the beach front and about five or so places to to eat. Ristorante Mustafa comes recommended but I wasn't in the mood for its white table cloths and more elegant atire.  I recommend getting drinks at Le Axide on the water. It has the best views of the blue water, Capri and Vesuvius. Then choose amoung the several restaurants on Via Arcoleo. I ate at the simple yet satisfying Pizzeria Aequa, with its wooden tables on the water. For hotels, there is the Albergo Le Ancore and Le Axidie Resort. I stayed at Le Sireneo, which was fine for the price.

Surprisingly, Marina de Aequa gets that Euro-beach vibe going after 11 pm, but its noise quickly fades away in the cove replaced by the sound of water lapping the beach. 

There are a few museums in town that might interest some in Vico Equense, the Museo Mineralogico Campano, which is focused on the geology of the area, and the Antiquarium Aequano, which focuses on the Italian, Greek and Etruscan remains from the area. However, my favorite museum is located in Piano di Sorrento, only a few stops away on the Circumvesuviana, the Georges Vallet Archaeological Museum. It is the ocean, though, and the dramatic views that make this such a spectacular place. The people are also welcoming, the air wafting with the scents of lemon and jasmine.

Getting There & Getting Around

From Rome, you must first get to Naples. A fast (a Frecciarossa) train is your best option if you don't mind paying extra (44 euros versus 19 for the slow train). Once at the Naples train station where you can connect to the local train line headed to Sorrento, called the Circumvesuviana (which translates as "around Vesuvius"), or take a taxi to the port to catch a hydrofoil - a great way to get some terrific views of the Bay of Naples and the city of Naples. 

If you take the Circumvesuviana, watch your belongings especially during rush hour when a thief has an excuse to get close to put a hand in your pocket. This happened to a nice 80-old gentleman from Nice that I met and he lost his camera with all of his photographs. Attenzione!

Below is a picture of the railroad bridge over the valley near the Seiano stop with Marina di Aequa in the distance.

Vico Equense is about a 20 minute train ride to Pompeii (heading north) and about the same distance from Seiano stop south to the end of the train line, Sorrento. If you decide to stay in Marina di Aequa, it is best to have a car. There is a bus stop in the Piazza Marina di Aequa. Once I walked up the hill on the winding Via Murano to catch the train (not for the faint hearted) at Seiano, which is probably named after Sejanus, Tiberius' right hand man, who had a villa here. 

Here are the ragazzi I met that were heading down to the beach when I was walking to the Seiano train station.



At night, fireworks in Positano were visible just over the mountain.

 The full moon.

Practical Information

Vico Equense

Restaurants

* Pizzeria da Franco: Corso Filangieri, 26; tel. 081/801-5442
* Tito's Ristorante Pizzeria: Via Filangieri, 27; tel. 081/801-5092
* Pizza a Metro da Gigno l'Universita della Pizza: Corso Giovanni Nicotera, 15; tel. 081/879-8309

Hotels

* Hotel Sporting: www.hotel-sporting.it
* Hotel Mary: www.hotelmaryvico.com

Museums

* the Museo Mineralogico Campano:Viale Rimembranza, 1; www.museomineralogicoccampano.it
* the Antiquarium Aequano: Corso Filangieri, 100

Marina di Aequa

Restaurants

* Torre del Saracino: well-known restaurant serving local cuisine. Via Torretta, 9, www.torredelsaracino.it
* Pizzeria Bar Aequa: on the water, casual. Via Arcoleo; tel. 081/801-5331
* Ristorante Mustafa: inside and on the water seating, mid-range. Via Murrano, 7; tel. 081/802-8602
* * Le Ancore: modern lounge bar on the water. Via Arcoleo

Hotels

* Albergo Le Ancore: www.leancorehotel.com
* Le Axidie Resort: www.leaxidie.it
* Sireneo: www.sireneo.com

Piano di Sorrento

* Georges Vallet Archaelogical Museum: Via Ripa di Cassano.