Andiamo Italia: July 2017

Going to Pompeii? There's some exciting things taking place. July 8, 2017 is not only the first time ever that Pompeii has been lit at night with the start of Una Notte a Pompeii (A Night in Pompeii), it is my friend Christopher Silva's birthday and I dedicate this post about Pompeii to his memory and zest for life. He showed us how to live, though his time with us was too short.

I have put together my top 10 favorite places to visit in Pompeii. While I recommend hiring a private guide if you want detailed information, my top 10 will get you around a large portion of Pompeii and you can use the map and short guide provided on-site to supplement your visit (beware that at the end of the season they might not have any left in English). If you can, try to sneak off down a side street. There is nothing like being alone (or nearly alone) on a 2,000 year old street to make you ponder the meaning of life.

#1: the Villa Imperiale

The Villa Imperiale is a must see. It is underneath Pompeii's Antiquarium (museum) that was heavily bombed during World War II then hit by an earthquake in 1980. As a result, they have been closed for more than thirty years. Though the museum is small for a site like Pompeii and slightly confusing to negotiate, the Villa Imperiale delights with various rooms that have beautiful frescoes and mosaic floors still intact. The Villa Imperiale dates from the end of the 1st century BCE.

The Villa Imperiale is located in an unusual position beside a city gate, the Marine Gate, located along the city's walls next to where the sea was before silt and eruptions from Vesuvius moved the coastline. It is located near the modern main entrance to Pompeii on the western side of the ruins.

Once you get your ticket, you will approach the ancient city via a steep paved road that leads up to the Marine Gate. On the right you can see the remains of the terrace of the Villa Imperiale. Immediately look for the entrance to the museum on the right (the Antiquarium), then once inside the museum look for signs leading to the villa, which is located downstairs.

The view from in front of the Antiquarium looking down on the formerly covered walkway of the Villa Imperiale. You can see the ramp to the Marine Gate just on the left.

Villa Imperiale oecus (living room) fresco

(on the right side)

Villa Imperiale oecus fresco
(on the far wall)

ornately decorated oecus of the Villa Imperiale
(closeups of the two main surviving frescoes are pictured above)

The ceiling of the oecus.

Note in the above picture of the oecus (living room) that the back wall is half yellow and half red. The entire wall was originally yellow but the heat from the eruption turned the yellow paint red.

Two rooms adjacent to the side garden contain reproduction furniture and real glassware and other fixtures that survived Vesuvius' lava, including a carbonized loaf of bread.

The triclinium (dining room) set up with the typical three couches used by Romans for dining with artifacts that survived the disaster.

the triclinium

The triclinum (dining room) opened onto an inner garden that was adjacent to a covered porch and terrace with a panoramic view of the ocean.

carbonized bread

closeup of a fresco from the Imperiale Villa

**This is a smaller corner room called a diaeta, which was used for rest.**

Pompeii is now exhibiting artists' work. This year a new show Casciello Pompeii by Angelo Caciello was just put on display and the opening was held at the Villa Imperiale on June 23, 2017.

#2: the House of the Vetti

This famous home of two brothers is finally open again to the public. Go see it! The two brothers were freedman that gained prominence and wealth in Pompeii.

Wonderful frescoes remain at the House of the Vettii

Fresco depicting a Roman villa on the sea.

Peristyle of the House of the Vetti.

This fresco of Priapus, the god of prosperity, is placed near the front door to protect the house. It shows him weighing his own phallus against a bag of money.

#3: the Temple of Isis

This temple still lies hidden from the street behind its tall walls.

The ancient walls surrounding the temple to Isis, visible through the gates.

You can walk up the steps to the temple of Isis, then down the small stairs on the side. It is almost completely intact, which is unusual.

the temple to Isis

the side stairs of the temple

a fresco in the temple

An oven set into a wall near the temple to Isis.

#4: the Praedia of Julia Felix

This is a large property that features gorgeous columns lining its portico, an euripus, a unique summer triclinium and a beautiful fountain. It was operated as partly as rental property and partly as the private home of a successful woman Julia Felix with shared common spaces.

The House of Julia Felix's elegant portico.

The euripus alongside the portico.

The triclinium with an unusual fountain in the middle - water would descend the marble stairs in cascades.

#5: the House of Octavius Quarto

This house (one house away from the House of Julia Felix) has a beautiful and peaceful garden with water channels running through it and many fountains, most of which still work today (but are not usually turned on).The frescoes are also well preserved.

An unusually large water channel surrounded by shaded walkways make this garden one of a kind.

There are beautiful frescoes left intact near the garden, including this one.

The garden and its water feature.

#6: the Forum Baths

These baths are not only beautifully decorated but they also have their original roofs. Most of the roofs in Pompeii were either struck down by falling rocks or collapsed under the weight of ash and debris from Vesuvius' eruption.

The caldarium (hot bath).

The frigidarium (cold bath).

The ceiling decoration.

A decoration on the changing room wall.

#7: the Theater District

Looking down toward the stage of the Large Theater.

During the summer months, check to see if there are any performances in Pompeii's Large Theater. I saw an orchestra play in the big theater once. Here's the link to the program for the summer of 2017: Pompeii Theater Performances

Make sure to walk through the Triangular Forum, which is adjacent to to Large Theater. This area of Pompeii dates to the 6th century BCE. On the other side of the Large Theater is the better preserved Small Theater.

#8: Necropolises

the Nocera Gate

The street of tombs outside the Nocera Gate.

Closeup of tall tomb.

All the city gates (except the Marine Gate) have at least a few tombs located outside the walls, since it was illegal to have tombs within the city walls. However, the two largest areas of tombs are located outside the Herculaneum Gate and the Nocera Gate. If you visit the Villa of the Mysteries, you should walk past the tombs outside the Herculaneum Gate. I also recommend walking to the tombs outside the Nocera Gate.

Tall tomb.

Display of funerary statues at the necropolis outside the Nocera Gate.

#9: the Forum Granary

View inside the Forum Granary.

The Forum Granary, now a storage area, is located just behind the Forum, along the west side. It is really interesting to look at but easy to miss. I like seeing all the ancient objects jumbled together. The plaster casts, though, are reminders that this city was a place where many died in 79 CE.

An rusted anchor and a statue of a veiled woman.

A cast of a sitting person next to a marble fountain amid amphoras.

Braziers used for heating cold rooms, marble fountains and the cast of a dog that died.

#10: the Suburban Baths

These baths are only open sometimes, but ask to see if you can get in. There are some erotic scenes pictured in the baths that scholars debate what their purpose was for since this was a public bath not a brothel. Some believe the erotic scenes were meant as reminders for where you stored your belongings while bathing.

The hot pool.

A nymphaeum above the caldarium portrays Mars with two cherubs. Water cascaded down the stairs to fill the bathing pool.

The calidarium, which had a view toward the sea but now looks at the ticket office at the top of the stairs.

The Suburban Baths viewed from the Marine Gate.

The double barreled Marine Gate with the larger side for carts and the other side for pedestrians.

More Interesting Things to Do or See in Pompeii:

Ancient food to go was served at the Thermopolium of Vetutius Placidus.

Stand behind a food bar and get your picture taken.

Check out the Bakery of Modestus where there are four large millstones intact. The millstones were used to grind wheat by donkeys or slave labor.

I love the 2,000 year old pipes that still fills the fountain basins with water. Make sure to look at how each public fountain is unique.

This 2,000 year old public fountain is still used today.

There are other noteworthy houses in Pompeii to see, if they are open. Houses that usually are open are: the House of the Faun, the House of Meander, the House of Ephebe, the House of Venus in the Shell, the House of Meander and the Villa of the Mysteries. While the Villa of the Mysteries is amazing, be aware that it is a bit of walk north of the town from the Herculaneum Gate. The Lupanare (brothel) and Stabian Baths are also interesting to see if you have time. Check here to see what is currently open to visitors in Pompeii: Buildings Open in Pompeii to Visitors

Some Practical Details

Take the local train, called the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii. Exit "Pompeii Scavi." There are two entrances, one near the train station and one a little walk to the north at the Villa of the Mysteries.

Its smart to arrive at Pompeii as early as possible to avoid the heat. However, later in the afternoon and near closing can be nice too since most of the big tour groups have left. Wear sensible walking shoes and bring a hat.

Consider staying in the new town of Pompei, just don't expect too much. I did it once, but now I prefer to stay in the Sorrento area and take the local train to Pompeii (about 20 minutes). Pompeii is a long day trip from Rome, but I've done that too and if its all you have time for, then do it.

Always ask at ticket window if there's anything special open that day. Sometimes you need a separate ticket, sometimes not. But if there is something open just for the day, make sure to visit it. Also, get an English map of Pompeii and a brief guide to the excavations. They are available for free near the ticket office.

As I mentioned before, water flows from numerous public fountains in Pompeii, so bring a refillable bottle. I also recommend bringing a picnic to eat. My favorite is ciabatta bread, prosciutto and cheese. A local cheese (despite the name) is the delightful Provolone del Monaco. If not, there is now a prepared food that can be bought

Other Places of Interest Near Pompeii

Antiquarium of Boscoreale:

This is a wonderful small museum in a former rustic farm, the Villa Regina. The address is Via Settetermini, 15, Boscoreale.

Villa of Poppea at Opolontis:

Exit the Circumvesuviana at Torre Annunziata Opolonti. It is only a few blocks walk to the Villa but be cautious since this is not a very good neighborhood. Once you are at the Villa, you can relax and enjoy the remains of this beautiful home that is believed to have belonged to Nero's second wife, Poppea.

Chairlift:

Exit the Circumvesuviana at Castellammare di Stabia and take the chair lift to the top of Monte Faito.

Stabiae Villas:

There are numerous ruins of Roman villas situated along a ridge, formerly overlooking the sea. These are very interesting to see and there is ongoing archaeological work being done that has turned up exciting new discoveries.