Beyond the Almalfi Coast: Vico Equense

Marina di Aequa and the village of Vico Equense on the cliff

Not far from the crowds in Almalfi and Positano, there are villages that may seem to have less but that really have more to offer visitors. 


Vico Equense (Vee-ko E-qwen-zay)  sits high on a cliff with beaches on either side - the Marina di Aequa to the south and the Marina di Vico to the north. This lovely town is abuzz with locals in the later afternoon and early evening, especially around the Piazza J.F. Kennedy and the Piazza D'Umberto. The view of Vesuvius across the Bay of Naples is breathtaking at sunset.  It is a charming village that is busy but isn't full of tourist shops. It has a pleasant downtown area, along with cafes and pizzerias. Try Pizzeria da Franco for a quick and delicious pizza or pastry. Don't miss the local cheese, provolone del Monaco. Go to Da Gigno's, which is famous for selling its pizza by the meter and has been a family business since the 1950s.

Cathedral of SS. Annunziata

It was called Aequana when Marcus Agrippa (c 64-13 BCE) settled veterans from the Roman legions here.  Remains have been found, though, dating as far back as the 7th century B.C.E. In modern times, it is called Vico Equense. The village is perched high up on a tufa cliff, with Monte Faito rising behind it and Vesuvius looming in the distance across the bay. Grapes grace the mountainside and lemon trees flourish. Here, it is possible to feel more Italian charm (and calm) than those overrun with tourists.  Not that I don't love Sorrento, but this is a respite well worth a few nights.

the harbor at Marina di Aequa

view of Vesuvius from southern end of Marina di Aequa with pool

In the main town of Vico Equense, there are several nice hotels located on the south edge of town with great views looking down at the Marina di Aequa and a quick walk to the cathedral of SS. Annunziataa. The Hotel Sporting has a wonderful deck overlooking the cliff above the ocean. The Hotel Mary also has views of the water.

In the cove that is the small town of Marina di Aequa, there is a main street along the beach front and about five or so places to to eat. Ristorante Mustafa comes recommended but I wasn't in the mood for its white table cloths and more elegant atire.  I recommend getting drinks at Le Axide on the water. It has the best views of the blue water, Capri and Vesuvius. Then choose amoung the several restaurants on Via Arcoleo. I ate at the simple yet satisfying Pizzeria Aequa, with its wooden tables on the water. For hotels, there is the Albergo Le Ancore and Le Axidie Resort. I stayed at Le Sireneo, which was fine for the price.

Surprisingly, Marina de Aequa gets that Euro-beach vibe going after 11 pm, but its noise quickly fades away in the cove replaced by the sound of water lapping the beach. 

There are a few museums in town that might interest some in Vico Equense, the Museo Mineralogico Campano, which is focused on the geology of the area, and the Antiquarium Aequano, which focuses on the Italian, Greek and Etruscan remains from the area. However, my favorite museum is located in Piano di Sorrento, only a few stops away on the Circumvesuviana, the Georges Vallet Archaeological Museum. It is the ocean, though, and the dramatic views that make this such a spectacular place. The people are also welcoming, the air wafting with the scents of lemon and jasmine.

Getting There & Getting Around

From Rome, you must first get to Naples. A fast (a Frecciarossa) train is your best option if you don't mind paying extra (44 euros versus 19 for the slow train). Once at the Naples train station where you can connect to the local train line headed to Sorrento, called the Circumvesuviana (which translates as "around Vesuvius"), or take a taxi to the port to catch a hydrofoil - a great way to get some terrific views of the Bay of Naples and the city of Naples. 

If you take the Circumvesuviana, watch your belongings especially during rush hour when a thief has an excuse to get close to put a hand in your pocket. This happened to a nice 80-old gentleman from Nice that I met and he lost his camera with all of his photographs. Attenzione!

Below is a picture of the railroad bridge over the valley near the Seiano stop with Marina di Aequa in the distance.

Vico Equense is about a 20 minute train ride to Pompeii (heading north) and about the same distance from Seiano stop south to the end of the train line, Sorrento. If you decide to stay in Marina di Aequa, it is best to have a car. There is a bus stop in the Piazza Marina di Aequa. Once I walked up the hill on the winding Via Murano to catch the train (not for the faint hearted) at Seiano, which is probably named after Sejanus, Tiberius' right hand man, who had a villa here. 

Here are the ragazzi I met that were heading down to the beach when I was walking to the Seiano train station.



At night, fireworks in Positano were visible just over the mountain.

 The full moon.

Practical Information

Vico Equense

Restaurants

* Pizzeria da Franco: Corso Filangieri, 26; tel. 081/801-5442
* Tito's Ristorante Pizzeria: Via Filangieri, 27; tel. 081/801-5092
* Pizza a Metro da Gigno l'Universita della Pizza: Corso Giovanni Nicotera, 15; tel. 081/879-8309

Hotels

* Hotel Sporting: www.hotel-sporting.it
* Hotel Mary: www.hotelmaryvico.com

Museums

* the Museo Mineralogico Campano:Viale Rimembranza, 1; www.museomineralogicoccampano.it
* the Antiquarium Aequano: Corso Filangieri, 100

Marina di Aequa

Restaurants

* Torre del Saracino: well-known restaurant serving local cuisine. Via Torretta, 9, www.torredelsaracino.it
* Pizzeria Bar Aequa: on the water, casual. Via Arcoleo; tel. 081/801-5331
* Ristorante Mustafa: inside and on the water seating, mid-range. Via Murrano, 7; tel. 081/802-8602
* * Le Ancore: modern lounge bar on the water. Via Arcoleo

Hotels

* Albergo Le Ancore: www.leancorehotel.com
* Le Axidie Resort: www.leaxidie.it
* Sireneo: www.sireneo.com

Piano di Sorrento

* Georges Vallet Archaelogical Museum: Via Ripa di Cassano.